My Approach to styling a show:
Ensuring a show is well styled is incredibly important to me, adding those authentic little touches such as appropriate period accessories or the length of a hem makes a huge difference to the overall aesthetic of any production and takes the audience visually to another time and place.
Regardless of the period the show is set in, be it 20’s, 50’s or more recently I will do extensive research to create the appropriate look and feel, although I can’t resist adding little twists to accommodate specific requirements dictated by the directors (or my own) vision.
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The Libertine
Directed by Anne-Marie Chronnell
Having worked with Anne-Marie on various shows, she asked me if I would be interested in styling her production of The Libertine. How could I refuse the following brief:
A Vivienne Westwood-inspired pallet of punk rock meets 18th century opulent hedonism.
I loved the challenge of this brief. I immediately had the idea of combining authentic period costumes; the frills and flounces, luxurious fabrics and deconstructed mini crinolines with DM’s leather chokers, bold stripes and zips which were common in punk rock styling. Making the ensemble mono-chrome with clashing patterns and textures was a contrast to the principles I very much wanted to enhance, which was in keeping with Anne-Marie’s approach to the production.
Testimonial
I loved working with Angus. He has an excellent eye for details and taking a general concept, asking the right questions and running with it. He was always open to adjustments and more importantly was flexible and creative when it was clear that initial ideas weren't quite matching up to the direction of the character as it developed during the process of rehearsals. He generated a sense of confidence that no matter what direction we went in that he could source and realize the vision. Hands down I'd work with him again.
Hot Mikado
Directed by Angus Jacobs
The orchestration of Hot Mikado is up tempo and has swing at its heart.
So, for the men the styling was influenced by the 1950’s ‘Rat Pack’ and for the women I wanted them to be sexy with ‘a nod’ to traditional Japanese influences. By putting Pencil Full Of Lead as the prequel to the show, torpedo bras and pearls were required for the women, which required a quick change into the land of Titipu so their costumes had to be an easy ‘throw over’. My version of Hot Mikado was heavy on the dance, so traditional kimonos would be too restrictive so as you can see from the sketch here for the Ladies of Japan, I shortened the length and had only one full sleeve to assist better partner work when dancing.
Katisha is the key ‘villainess’ role in Hot Mikado, and I wanted her to be intimidating, dramatic and sexy.
We cast the talented Liz Flint in the role who is 5’10 and I wanted to enhance her height with high heeled boots ,and traditional Japanese katsura (wig) and Kanzashi (embellishments) creating a hugely intimidating figure. With a tight fitting bodice and ‘swirling’ floor-length coat, embellished with dragon embroidery and lined in silver, with wire in the hem to emphasise the voluminosity of it just added to the drama. Adding a holster where she kept her whip just emphasised the danger in her character. This is probably one of the costumes I am most proud of, not only in design but in characterisation.
Priscilla Queen of the Desert
Directed by Angus Jacobs
This was probably the greatest costume challenge I’ve ever faced. Due to the restrictions of the Bridewell stage it wasn’t practical or economically viable to hire the touring production costumes eg. They were too big and too many of them. There was no alternative we would have to design our own!! - and so the research started in earnest.
Inspiration came from avant garde pop stars such as Katy Perry - known for her outlandish, fun and tongue in cheek costumes, and the script itself. Rather than the usual aliens for the production number ‘I will survive’ which is set in the Australian desert when Priscilla breaks down, I referenced things you might find there such as spiders, lizards and a cactus!!
There is also an element of homophobia within the show and so to draw this out - I designed costumes around pineapples, bananas and a bunch of grapes! The grapes were actually balloons and in one scene Felicia wearing the pineapple pops one of Bernadette’s grapes in spite!! In case you were wondering why fruit - ‘fruit’ was historically a derogatory term used for gay men.
Once the costumes were designed the next big question was who would make them? Luckily, I worked with the amazingly talented Jamie Attle and his team at Attle Costumiers Ltd in Weybridge www.attlecostumiers.com
Not only did they recreate my vision to perfection, but they were also great fun to work with too - I couldn’t have been happier, as you can see from some of the images here.